Click here(or "Devil's Rock" to the locals)
Grid Reference SE 127125
Netherton Edge comprises a series of short gritstone buttresses running along the south-facing rim of the valley between Netherton and Honley. It is not major venue but one which might be worth checking out if you live locally. The situation itself is quite beautiful, with one of the best views in the Huddersfield Area. The woodland below the crag feels absolutely ancient and is a Site of Scientific Interest.
The largest buttress, Devil's Rock, has problems large enough to be scary. Unfortunately, insensitive (and often insensate) locals tend to leave their half-empty lager cans here, the sight and smell of which tends to detract from the climbing experience. Leave a bin bag on a nearby tree every time you go in the hope of educating them.
The problems are quite good though; with a couple (Naked Anus and Satan) being classic.
On the west face of Devil's Rock, the rock is top quality. Elsewhere on the edge, the rock can be friable - take special care whilst topping out. Further details on Devil's Rock can be found in Paul Perkins' 2002 Guidebook "Huddersfield Area: Climbing and Bouldering Guide".
A short distance further east along the edge is Netherton Woodland, where a series of short problems have been recently recorded (2008) by Jonathan Booth.
ACCESS
From Netherton Fold (GR 124127), a farm track (Scar Top Lane) runs eastwards (towards Emley Moor mast, if you can spot it!) along the wooded rim of the valley) in the direction of Hinchliffe's Farm Shop on Netherton Moor Road. It also is possible to approach from the Farm Shop; a delightful walk though slightly longer.
From the old hamlet of Netherton Edge, walk 200 paces past the last house along the valley rim to the obvious Devil's Rock (the largest buttress on the Edge). Another 100 paces brings you to the top of another well-polished buttress (with a carved heart and LD loves AC). Another 50 paces brings you to the top of yet another polished buttress (RH 197? and DM 74). Scramble down here to Netherton Woodland.
An easy to print PDF TOPO guide to all the problems can be downloaded from here
BETA ALERT!
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The Problems
Devil's Rock
(1) Font 3 On the clean west face, mantel onto the left arete.
(2) Font 3 Crimp up the wall just right of the arete.
(3) Font 3 Climb carefully via the two sandy scoops.
(4) Font 3+ OLD NICK Just left of some 'bullet holes' at the centre of the wall, climb over a small overlap then trend rightwards up some interesting features. Feels high!
(5) Font 6b BA'AL-ZEBUB Just right of the 'bullet holes', reach up to a left-hand sharp little slot and pull hard straight for the top!
(6) Font 6c+ NAKED ANUS From the graffiti of the same name, aim for the small left-hand sloping crimp. Fierce crimping leads into the scary zone. Finish slightly right with a breathless stretch from a good slot to the top. Classic.
(7) Font 6a+ SATAN Just left of the overhanging nose, use a small pocket to reach better holds, thence carefully to the top. Excellent (but high!).
(8) Font 6a+ DEVIL'S CAVE Haul up jugs out of the cave (used as a fireplace by the 'locals' - sooty!) and finish left. More like a route.
(9) Font 6a DEVIL'S OVERHANG From the cave, move up and right through steep terrain. More like a route; take care.
(10) Font 3 On the east face of Devil's Rock, the easy wall.
(11) Font 3 Climb to the right-hand end of a ledge.
(12) Font 3 The wall to the left of the sandy scoop.
(13) Font 6a THE DEVIL'S TRAVERSE Left to right, from (1) to (12). Check there's no glass on the low holds before you set off.
Thirty metres right is TV Aerial Buttress (the wire snakes up from a distant farmhouse):
(14) Font 3 Climb the left side via a ledge.
(15) Font 4 Swarm onto the centre of the ledge then up.
(16) Font 5+ PAULS ARETE The spooky green arete on its left side.
(17) Font 5+ HOLLY WALL The right-hand side of the arete.
Twenty-five metres to the right is Quite Impressive Buttress:
(18) Font 5+ Start from the boulder on the left side and traverse horizontally along the wide break and escape up the central wide corner crack.
(19) PROJECT The wall above the traverse of (18).
(20) Font 5 The central wide corner crack.
(21) Font 5 Just right, pull over the small overhang.
(22) Font 3 Right, up a small gully, is a small prow.
(23) Font 5+ On the buttress to the right, across the gully, reach up from the scoop to an awkward mantle onto the top.
(24) Font 3 LITTLE GEM The scoop in the front of the buttress.
In 20 metres, there's Gully Buttress:
(25) PROJECT. Flakes on the left face.
In another 20 metres is Cracked Buttress:
(26a) Font 3 The cracked face on its left.
(26b) Font 3 The cracked face.
(27) Font 3 HONLEY BOYS. The overhung recess in the centre of the buttress. Take care with friable rock.
Just to the right is:
Netherton Woodland by Jonathan Booth
Arête buttress:
To the right of the last problem in the 2002 guidebook is a buttress labelled ‘Rippled wall’. Here a hanging arête gives 2 good problems.
(1) Font 5 Climb the left side of the arête.
(2) Font 6a+ From a sitting start underneath the hanging arête, pull round the roof and slap for a distant hold before finishing up the arête.
(3) Font 5+ BOOTH'S ELIMINATE If you like slopers this problem is for you! From a sitting start below the arête, climb the wall without using the arête or the scoop near the top on the right.
Dyno Block:
On the right of Arête Buttress is a collection of small buttresses. One of these has a smooth overhanging base with a rectangular slot:
(4) Font 3 From a sitting start in the hollow between the buttress and the left hand block, swarm onto and climb the blunt arête.
(5) Font 6a From a sitting start, slap from the slot to the break above and continue up easy ground to the top. No footholds to the left; a hanging slap.
Pointy Buttress:
To the right of Dyno Block is a pointy buttress with a blunt nose. Some easy problems can be found here:
(6) Font 3+ From a standing start, crimp your way up the wall.
(7) Font 5 From a sitting start on the Cromlech-like pockets, follow the easier blunt nose to the top.
(8) Font 3+On the right side of the nose, climb from a standing start (sitting is marginally more awkward).
The Oven Buttress:
Continue right from Pointy Buttress past some holly trees until you come to the cave. This buttress gets its name from the bun-shaped rock in the back of the cave and stays dry through most rain although the top can get wet. Steep little problems are found here but check out your top-out before committing as some parts of the top can be very snappy.
(9) Font 5+ PANCAKE DAY From a sitting start at the base of a flake, follow it to hands on the top. Finish right or, more sensibly, reverse at 4b.
(10) Font 5+ BRUTE-FORCE IT IS! From a sitting start, climb the column (to the left of the cave-mouth) directly. Finish as for the previous problem.
(11) Font 5+ THE BUN From a sitting start on the bun in the cave. Face outwards and climb directly out of the cave to where the finish is best.
(12) Font 5+ From a sitting start, climb the short steep pillar to the right of the cave. Put your pad over the pointy rock.
(13) Font 5+ YOU'RE TIRED! Beginning at the start of Problem 9, swing right through Problem 10 before traversing the mouth of the cave and finish in the tree to the right. Traversing back and forth across this problem is good for the arms.
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